and the new Vietnam adventure gets a noteworthy start!

This is my 2nd trip to Vietnam within a few months. I was here in September. Lots of good experiences that time around and some unusual ones too.

Last trip my taxi was in a traffic accident. I wrote about it in a blog entry then.

This time my taxi was in an accident before I even got from airport to hotel! Or maybe better to say we got hit by someone on a motorbike! I snapped a quick picture of the cab before getting into a following cab and completing the ride to the hotel.

We were stopped at a traffic light. Unusual enough that I took note of it. While still sitting at the light and the light still red there was a thump at the back of the taxi and then someone slid along the cab at my right side passenger window and then down to the pavement! And just behind him, falling to the pavement outside my door, was his motorbike.

The street was VERY busy and in typical Vietnamese fashion nothing stopped. All the traffic kept moving past the cab, the motorbike driver and his motorbike.

The driver got up off the ground pretty quickly, picked up his motorbike and seemed to be attempting to start it. My cabbie got out, walked around to the motorbike driver and took the keys from the motorbike.

Not sure if he did that because he didn't think the driver could drive safely or because he wanted to keep him around for the police report.

In any case there was an empty cab in the road right behind mine. Moved my luggage into that cab and completed the journey to the hotel.

So, I guess, welcome back to Vietnam! The adventure begins anew.

Vietnam's tallest building

Vietnam's tallest building is the BITEXCO Financial Tower.

UPDATE: now 2nd tallest















At least for now its the tallest. It's just a short walk from my hotel. Pay $200,000* and you get an elevator ride to the 49th floor observing deck. It is just a few floors below what I think is the helipad. Before I went up I was hoping maybe the observing deck was outside on that big platform. No :-( . Still great views of HCM from the deck. I'd definitely go up again.

looking west, Ben Thanh market is in this picture

I've was told an even taller building will be completed in Hanoi over the next few months. Even after that it is still a great view. No matter, its nice place to get a view of the city after all the walking around it that I've done.

Ben Thanh Market

As I've walked around HCM I've used the building as a guide post to set my direction and distance from the my hotel. In addition to being easy to see it's unique shape makes it obvious which direction things are relative to the building.

looking east

* $200,000VN = $10US the view's worth it!!

The rules

Rules are posted in a fair number of places. Much like in the US but the rules are generally more extensive. And usually there are elements to the rules that make me wonder just exactly whether there's a snowball's chance in hell the posted rule would actually be broken. 

This small boat I was on is a fine example of that.

Below are the posted rules. Note rule 3. The end of the first line and the beginning of the second. What is the likelihood radioactive materials or cattle might be brought on the boat? The radioactive materials could certainly be hidden but a cow, a cow. How could a cow be brought on board without the crew knowing someone was attempting to bring aboard a cow.

Garbage town

There is a lot of trash everywhere I've been. The beach I went to, Can Gio, is a real mess. In HCM there is trash on the streets everywhere and on the tour bus rides I've taken small trash piles are everywhere along the roadside. And Tây Ninha where the Cao Dai temple I visited had trash on all the streets the bus drove along.

In places like HCM it is difficult to find a trash can. Every other city I recall visiting has them pretty much at every corner and often times along the block as well. In Vietnam I've had too look carefully to find trash cans. This is true even in the resort I visited. And the beach at the resort is not one I'd like to go barefoot along.

I see street cleaners are everywhere in HCM. By "street cleaner" I mean a person in an orange jump suit pushing a rolling bin and carrying a broom and dust pan. A veritable army of these people sweep the sidewalks and streets. The street gets cleaned and the cycle starts all over again once the cleaners abandon the streets. My impression of the Vietnamese approach to public sanitation, at least in HCM, is "throw it to the ground and the street cleaners will pick it up."

This works after a fashion in HCM but I don't imagine the street cleaner vs trash ration is high enough once outside the city center. Judging from the trash piles I've seen along the roads it isn't. Much of the trash is inorganic, plastic, so it will be around for a while. Plastic bags are abundant and many beverages are sold in plastic bottles.

One item of trash I haven't seen much of is glass. From my bicycle riding I've developed a keen eye for glass to avoid flats. In the US it is everywhere. Even along quiet country roads. Given the amount of beer I see being consumed from glass bottles here I expected there to be plenty of that along the roads too. I'm not seeing it though. I don't know if there are bottle deposits but I guess glass must be valuable enough a resource that it doesn't qualify as trash.

Traffic never sleeps

Another video from the back of a motorbike. This time in the evening after dinner. Perhaps its the narrow streets, maybe it's that nobody walks and everyone's in the street on a motorbike, pedal bike, three wheeler with or without motor or maybe its just the unfamiliarity of it all but it seems to me that more than any other city I've been in HCM is always bustling.

There has not been a time when the streets are not busy. For me its fascinating.

Life happens on the sidewalks here and moves in the streets. Motorbikes park everywhere and crowd the sidewalks. Where there aren't motorbikes there are vendors on the sidewalks selling pho (soup), rice and rice flour dishes and sandwiches. Also drinks of various sorts.

Then there are the customers sitting all around on various sorts of low plastic furniture. There is hardly room to move on the sidewalks. So everything that moves, pedestrians, bikes, motorbikes, three wheelers, cars, etc. moves in the street.

If you ever come to Ho Chi Minh be prepared to experience traffic in a way you've never imagined before.

One regret so far

I've never been this close to the equator before. One of the things I was looking forward to is seeing the night sky. In Saigon there's too much light pollution and I haven't found the open spaces. Plus it's been cloudy most nights. Tonight looking out my hotel window I can see a star in the sky. Don't know where to go to get some darkness and see more.

Went to Hue the last two nights. It is a much less populated city. The thought of seeing the night sky there was in my mind. Unfortunately it didn't happen. I was out in the evening both nights and the sky was overcast.

One more chance to see the night sky from about 10' north of the equator then I'm out of here. I hope I get a chance to see the night sky clearly once before I'm gone.

Hello :-)

Many Vietnamese say "hello" when they see me. In the majority of cases it seems to be a genuinely friendly greeting. In just a few cases it has seemed to be a bit mocking. The mocking presentation has been from maybe two different guys who seemed to me to be teenagers.

The others from the very young up through the ages to the very old have been quite friendly. This little fellow is one of the youngest to greet me with a "hello." The one even younger I failed to take a picture of. So this guy will have to do as my representation of friendly young Vietnamese who greet me with a "hello."

Dog

Nga, Long and me at dog meat restaurant

Continuing on the uncommon meats trail. Had dog tonight. As expected nothing special. Still have rat, cat, snake and horse on the list but not expecting anything new with them. If they were real tasty they'd be raised for slaughter en masse like cows, pigs, chicken, etc already.

Have thought of something not raised for slaughter that I think is very tasty, squid. That's the one exception though.

Also one son reminded me I was planning to try bugs if I found them and my dinner companions asked if I would eat crickets. Thanked my son for the reminder and said yes to my dinner companions. No crickets tonight though.

dog meat and dog meat sausage

So what was the meal? Dog meat, believe it was boiled, and dog meat sausage made with the blood as well as the meat. The meat had the skin left on it. I didn't expect that or its orange color. Didn't like the skin much. The texture was soft and easy to bite through, I didn't notice a distinct flavor and the color kind of threw me. There was a thin layer of fat between the skin and meat. The meat was a bit chewy. There wasn't a strong flavor and no gamy taste. Can't say what it did taste like just what I didn't detect.

Have no idea what kind of dog it was. Didn't see dogs, alive or dead, in the restaurant. Also didn't hear any dogs while there. Suspect the meat was brought in each day and dogs not slaughtered there. 

Anyway, as expected after my experience with turtle and lizard, dog is still not "blue food".

The sex

Prostitution is illegal in Vietnam. So are many other things like more than two adults and a child older than 5 on a motorbike. These prohibitions are routinely ignored. With the motorbikes the violations are obvious and everywhere. With the prostitution it seems to be nearly as obvious.

Massage advertising is everywhere. Some of it is surely legitimate. Much of it is a front for prostitution or massage and prostitution. From what I've gathered some prostitutes are intent on delivering massage with sex.

For the ear picking I expected to be in a street level open front shop where the sidewalk was visible. That is what the ear picking videos I found on YouTube showed. The shop I went to had the barber chairs at ground level and a glass storefront. When it was determined I was there for ear picking we took an elevator to the 3rd floor and ended up in a small intimate room with two paintings of partially nude women on one wall and a large flat screen TV on the wall at my feet. The TV was off while I was in the room. If I hadn't had a woman friend with me recording the ear picking I believe there might have been some very erotic programming playing. Listen to the background music in the video segment. Somewhat seductive, no? With sharp instruments in your ear piping in death metal probably wouldn't be a good idea anyway but still! My videographer and I agreed that if she hadn't been there I probably would have been offered "additional services." We also agreed a lot of sex has likely happened in that room.

One of the things I like to do when I visit some place is walk around. It gives a perspective of the area that riding in cabs or driving cars just don't offer.

I've walked from my hotel quite often. Any walks after about 2:00 PM are inevitably interrupted by offers of massage. Offers are made by a woman who is usually attempting to hand over a card or advertising leaflet. As the day progresses into evening and then night the pitch often involves the woman following along for a bit repeating the offer.

About early evening, maybe 5:00 PM and later, usually the offer includes "special massage", "happy ending" or quite simply "I fuck you good". A few women have offered massage while following along beside me and even hanging onto my arm. After repeating several times that I really don't want a massage they've sighed somewhat resignedly and said "okay no massage just fuck you then". From that I get the perspective the massage part is important to them.

In addition to the women there are guys on motorbikes on the corners. During the day they offer to ferry you around town. In the evening they offer the same and, after being turned down, they go to their second line of business and offer women. Some have had cards with pictures of women on them, others have shown photos on their smartphones and still others have said "you come look, no charge unless you see girl you like, you don't like I bring another girl".

The women I've spoken with here seem quite resigned to this. They expect that all men will cheat and "it is just a part of life here." They all have girlfriends whose husbands have one or multiple lovers or who make use of the many sex services. Seems like a pretty rough place for a woman to find happiness and be secure in a relationship.

The food, oh the food!!

I've signed up for a one morning cooking class that will be Tuesday morning. Any westerners reading this will be sleeping, or watching football, Monday night while I'm learning and cooking Tuesday morning. 

Beside the uncommon meats I've already posted about I've eaten lots of other more conventional food here in Vietnam. I've been trying to decide how to write about the food without creating a single giant post. I haven't really figured out what this will be like over the next several food posts. For starters though here's my impression of the fresh fruits.

First, WOW, I can't imagine there being any better variety or flavor and texture choices. I wrote about durian that I tasted fresh for the first time ever on my first night here. Beside the durian there are other fruits with familiar and unfamiliar names. For the unfamiliar names I will get them and put them in the photo captions. 

There are fruits common to US supermarkets like watermelon, grapes, oranges, limes, pineapple, mango and grapefruit. I'm sure I'm forgetting some. For the most part the watermelon, grapes, oranges and limes haven't seemed different. The pineapple, mango and grapefruit are definitely more succulent.

Then there are the fruit that are not found or extremely uncommon in the US market. This includes a number of them that I've only heard and then forgotten the Vietnamese name. Tastes and textures run a gamut from soft to firm, no fiber to fibrous, moist to "turn off the faucet!" and small seeds to large pits.

dragon fruit

 Dragon fruit meat is soft and a bit grainy with no fibers and visible but not tasted or felt seeds and a very mildly sweet flavor. The skin looks nasty but can be cut easily and easily separates from the meat. There are red and white, đỏ & trắng, meat varieties. White is more common. Red is supposedly "better" and so is more expensive. I've had both and prefer the white. It's meat is a bit firmer and there is less juice. Apparently the premium for red is based on the color.

red & white (đỏ & trắng) dragon fruit

jack fruit

jack fruit

jack fruit

I mistook jackfruit for muskmelon/cantelope when I first saw it. The first pieces I had where much more orange than these pictures. Each little piece is a seed jacket inside the fruit. A single fruit can be larger than a person's head. It's got a tough bumpy exterior and hundreds of the seed wrappers inside. The most common way I've seen it sold is in packages that contain only the seed wrappers. It is succulent, sweet, moist and firm like a not quite ripe muskmelon. The meat isn't fibrous and is textured a bit like a gummy bear without the stickiness.

durian

Durian I've described before.

durian

on left mangosteen, on right rambutan 

mãng cầu, the sweet kind 

mãng cầu, the sweet kind

Other fruits I've tried have all been sweet to MUCH sweeter with larger seeds. I haven't gotten the names down yet so won't name them here but will come back and caption the pictures with names once I get them again and write them down. UPDATE: thanks to anonymous for the info about mangosteen, rambutan and mãng cầu.

Củ Chi Tunnels

During the Vietnam war one of the methods VC (Viet Cong) and NVN (North Vietnamese Army) used to attack American and other forces in and around Saigon were tunnels in the Củ Chi area.

red is the Cu Chi district

This is a very extensive tunnel system consisting of over 250KM of tunnels dug by hand in the earth around the province of Củ Chi. Because the earth is very firm no bracing was required to build them. A local name given to the ground in the area is "iron earth" because it is so firm. Holes and tunnels can be dug into it that will not collapse even without bracing.

the tunnel plan explained

The Cư Chi tunnels were built at several different depths. There were 3m, 6m and 9m deep tunnels. Most of the network was at 3m and was used to move fighters and weapons through out the province. At that depth there were also meeting rooms, first aid stations, operating rooms, communication and planning centers and munitions depots. The deeper 6m tunnels went to triangular shaped bomb shelters and the 9m tunnels went to escape routes such as exits below the surface of the Saigon river and traps for pursuers.

making my way through a tunnel

The tunnel guide gave the group the opportunity to pass through a number of tunnels. We started with tunnels enlarged for westerners and ended with smaller tunnels that were original size built for Vietnamese. I was able proceed through the "westerners" tunnel section in an easy crouch. In the original size tunnels I needed to be in a low crouch with my head down and back and shoulders touching the top arch of the tunnel or squatting on one leg the shin of the other leg flat on the tunnel floor and the leg bent sharply at the hip and folded at the knee.

We didn't venture into any of the even smaller tunnels described as one way routes that are small even for Vietnamese and "plug" tunnels that lead nowhere and are too small to reverse direction in once entered.

The one way tunnels were described as being a tunnel defense mechanism where a defender could be at the widened part of the tunnel and easily prevent advance of people through the tunnel. Anyone coming through a one way section would not be in a position to effectively fire weapons or defend themselves. The plug tunnels are meant as a method to trap someone without need for a defender ahead in the tunnel.

The Wikipedia article linked mentions infestations of many types of bugs in the tunnels. I didn't note any while there. A lack of bugs in general is something I've noted during my visit to Vietnam that is very surprising to me. With the exception of dragon flies and ants I have seen very few bugs anywhere I've been. I have seen some flies, their low numbers are notable because of the abundant trash, maybe three spiders, one LARGE cockroach and an inch worm.

The bills, the bills

Currency in Vietnam isn't too hard to do the conversions with. figure $20,000VN = $1US or $200,000VN = $10US or $2,000,000 = $100US. It's close enough and gets a slightly higher US $ cost estimate than the actual cost. I like estimating a little on the high side.

What gets me is actually paying. Having to distinguish between a 1,000 and 10,000 and 100,000 or 2,000 and 20,000 and 200,000 or 500 and 5,000 and 50,000 and 500,000 bill quickly is a bit of a pain. So many zeros! And so many denominations.

Bills I've had in my wallet are $500, $1,000, $2,000, $5,000, $10,000, $20,000, $50,000, $100,000, $200,000 and $500,000. I've only gotten coin change twice and the coins were $200, $2,000 and $5,000 denominations.

Basically all transactions are with bills. There's at least ten different denominations to handle, change given often isn't exact and the person "shortchanged" is as often the seller as it is the buyer.

Say you buy something for $63,000 and pay $70,000 with a $50,000 and a $20,000 bill. You might get back a $10,000 bill or you might get a $5,000 bill. Either way its clear the fee is paid and the vendor/cabbie/etc. is expecting to move on to the next customer. In a store with a cash register you are going to get a $5,000 bill and two $1,000 bills or a $2,000 bill.

Hard custom to get used to. On the other hand its nice to be a millionaire for once in my life!

My dog's smarter than your dog!

In the US I've seen dead dogs by the side of the road. Not lots of them but often enough that it isn't a huge surprise to see one on the road.

In the city I haven't really seen many dogs. On the bus trips I've taken I seen quite a few. For the most part they're all similarly built. Compact body, perhaps 20 pounds, with short coats and tails that often curl over their back. Very few have been chained. Even outside Saigon the road is quite busy and the homes and business are located pretty much on the road. The dogs are generally very close to the road as a result.

It seems to me there is PLENTY of opportunity for these pooches get nailed by a one of the many vehicles cruising by on the road. And yet I haven't seen any dead dogs in the road or along side it. I have seen the dogs moving to avoid traffic in ways I haven't seen dogs do in USA.

For instance I've seen them move onto the shoulder or cross quickly when the bus driver beeps the horn. And he's not beeping when he's right on top of the dog. It might be 30 or so yards ahead of us on the road.

So I'm thinking these dogs are smarter than the average dog I've known or at least they've developed really keen "street smarts". In any case lots of dogs (outside the city center), lots of traffic and no dog road kill anywhere to be seen.

I wanna eat you

Went to the HCM city zoo the other day. I had to leave early for a lunch date and didn't get to see the whole zoo.

I did see a number of animals and birds. Two exhibits left a lasting impression though. There is a white tiger and a lion exhibit at the zoo. I've seen both animals before of course. What was different in this case is that I got the distinct impression the white tiger and one of the lions were eyeing me as prey!

I've seen many big cat exhibits and never gotten that feeling before. The white tiger's enclosure is plexiglass. Visitors and the tiger can walk right up to it. The lion enclosure is the more common visitor behind a fence that keeps you away from the fence that keeps the animals in. The particular lioness was laying down quite a way from her inner fence.

Both these two cats tracked me attentively with their eyes and followed me with their head as I moved across the front of their enclosure. The zoo was relatively deserted. It was midday on a Wednesday and it was raining. When I got to the enclosures I was the only person around.

If you ever want to feel threatened get yourself in a situation where it feels like a big cat is intent on eating you. 

I killed it...

...well not really. But it's my fault it is dead. I pointed to the turtle that I wanted for dinner. The restaurant staff took it from the aquarium and cooked it for me.With the lizard I just asked for a lizard. The restaurant staff then grabbed one and grilled it up. I didn't eat them all by myself. They were shared with Tam, the guy who brought me to the restaurant.


Was actually going out for rat tonight. The restaurant was selected by Tam because he knew it served rat. They didn't have any though :-(. Second time I've gone to a restaurant for rat and not been able to get it.

Split in half lizard. Yup that's both halves of the head at the bottom of the plate.

Unidentified turtle organs. I ate them!

I know what part of turtle this was and I ate it!

Anyway my friend Tam says next time we'll go to his friend's restaurant where horse is served. I'm sure it will look like an ordinary piece of meat on the plate not like a turtle or a lizard or a rat or a pigeon, yes I've eaten pigeon, or anything recognizeable.

A side note, I've seen very few pigeons in Ho Chi Minh.

I'm going to have the horse and will still try and get rat. Also going to see if I can find cat and dog.

I don't think they'll be any different than the turtle, lizard or pigeon. They won't taste special. I'm begining to think that would be true of anything beside domestic animals. Domestic animals have been raised for years to be eaten. So they have been being selected for taste for many years. I'm beginning to find it hard to believe an animal not raised for slaughter would taste better than one bred for it.

Suite Life of Zack & Cody anyone?

Well, no complaints about MAI Hotel.

Decent breakfast buffet, close to major Saigon points of interest (easy walking distance), close to a lot of shopping, good service and inexpensive too.

It got even better a few days ago. I extended my trip from middle of September to October 3rd. The room rate went down to $30/day retroactive, they forgave existing laundry charges and gave me free laundry service. I wonder if I told them "I want to live here" what they'd do!

Nose cleaning and ear picking

This is the strangest thing I ever remember paying for. The ear picking part felt really good. Plus for only $5US for both, ear picking alone is even less, I would do it routinely.

Ho Chi Minh at night in the rain

Just a few pictures from a walk near my hotel one recent rainy evening. It hadn't rained at all here in three days. They're the only days it didn't rain since I arrived.

Traffic keeps moving and the motorbikes keep riding even in the rain. A long exposure time was needed to get the pictures. The white and red streaks you see are the motorbikes.

Hanging with the locals

Right outside my hotel there's a local bar. They have one brew sold by the liter and others in bottles that are the same as bought from the store. The sold by the liter brew is served in plastic jugs that are filled when you order then capped with a screw cap. $9,000 VND or about 43¢ /liter! Even at 43¢/liter they still serve free bar snacks, grapes and boiled peanuts.

The place opens around 10:00AM and I'm not sure closing time. I've only seen it closed once at night. I was going into the hotel at 1:00AM and the bar was closed.

Heading out of the hotel for lunch one day I decided to go stop there for a beer instead. It's a real local hangout. All Vietnamese faces, no menus, a white board with hand written prices on it and low plastic furniture everywhere. I ordered a bottled beer. Before I finished a fellow approached me and began asking the a usual questions, e.g., where you from, how long you here, what's your name, etc.?

after beer sitting in a real restaurant

We had a few beers together (he bought his own and I didn't buy the bottled on the spot local brew), some of the boiled peanuts the house served and he had the house grapes too.

Turned out he is an unpublished author with hopes of selling a book around the world about maintaining good health and virility. He carries his manuscript around with him in his backpack. He is 79 and, based on his assertion that he drinks 10 - 12 beers a day at lunch, he does look much younger than I would expect.

Plus I met him after liquid lunch time and he was still talking clearly and able to walk a straight line. Drinking is not one of the methods he endorsed to maintain health and virility, Vietnamese yoga is. Being able to dring while maintaining one's health is just a side benefit. 


He'd appreciate hearing from anyone. If you want to send him a note address a message to thaithanh999 at yahoo dut com.

How to make a killing at the bank!

How's 14% interest on a savings account sound?! Yeah, I thought so too. Then I saw it is only for accounts in Dong. Inflation is about 20% here in Vietnam I'm told. So I guess it isn't really a killing. More like a losing proposition.

But wait a minute! Perhaps it is still possible to make a killing? Bring in US$, exchange for Dong, put in 14% savings account, remove after some time, convert back to US$.

I'm exchanging $1US = $20,800VN and the rate to convert back is only slightly less, $20,850VN = $1US. 14% interest in the Dong savings account would certainly cover the reconversion loss. I'm sure there's something I'm not seeing otherwise this would be selling as a get rich quick scheme!

The accident

My cô giaò took me on a day trip to Vũng Tàu. The last king of Vietnam, Bảo Đại, had a summer vacation retreat there. We took a hydrofoil from Saigon to Vũng Tàu. A little over an hour trip. Any boat I've ever been on before has always felt a bit rough, even large ferrys, from the hull slapping the water. That's true on even smooth water. The hydrofoil was glass smooth all the way from Saigon to Vũng Tàu . Vũng Tàu is nearly on the sea and the water was much choppier there than in Saigon but still the smooth ride. Really impressed by the difference a hydrofoil makes.

Anyway, the accident. We took a taxi from the dock to the kings palace. The streets of Vũng Tàu are more open than in Saigon and much less crowded. Even so our taxi driver managed to bang into a motorbike at an intersection. The motorbike didn't go down and both motorbike and cab were stopped for a moment in the intersection with both drivers looking at one another. Finally the motorbike rider continued on past our taxi and pulled over to the curb.

As the motorbike was pulling away the cabbie began shouting and gesticulating toward the rider. I have no idea what he was saying of course. From my perspective the bang up was the cabbie's fault. It seemed the motorbike was clearly in front of us, crossing our path, but the cabbie kept driving forward until he bumped the motorbike.

cabbie walking toward motorbike, picture from back seat of cab!

We hit the motorbike in the middle of the intersection. In what seems typical Vietnamese fashion traffic from all four directions kept moving with the cab stopped in the intersection. We hadn't moved when the motorbike pulled over to the curb. As soon as that happened the cabbie got out, leaving us and the cab in the middle of the intersection with traffic flowing all around us, to go have a word with the motorbike rider.

Once he finished with the motorbike rider our cabbie came back to the car and prepared to continue the journey. At that moment a police van with four police inside pulled in front of the cab blocking our path. Now a police vehicle and the cab were both stopped in the middle of the intersection and traffic from all four directions continued to flow by. The cabbie got out and spoke loudly with many gestures to the cop in the front passenger seat. He then returned to the cab, the police van pulled away and we proceeded on our way.

After cô giaò spoke with the cabbie I learned the motorbike rider apparently apologized to the cabbie for blocking his way. Didn't learn what the cabbie and cop spoke about. Apparently that's all there is to a no damage traffic accident in Vietnam.

What's wrong with this picture?

I don't think it is just me. The elevator buttons in my hotel have given me a nagging feeling of uncertainty for days. Finally figured out why. Anybody else see anything unusual here?

Playing in the street

I've written about the traffic in Saigon from perspectives of watching from the curb and participating as a motorbike passenger.

The last few evenings I've been at my hotel and needed to find dinner for myself. My hotel only serves breakfast buffet so I must venture out for other meals. As in other cities I visit I walked from my hotel to get a sense of the area and see what's in the immediate area. That means I experienced traffic as a pedestrian! Fortunately I had the opportunity to observe pedestrians before attempting my own trek across a street. If not for that I would never have attempted a crossing at dinner time much less crossed safely.

Based on what I observed I waited until nothing too big was coming my way (four wheeled vehicles seem less apt to make way for pedestrians), then I look in the direction opposite oncoming traffic because not all traffic goes the "right" direction, look in the direction of oncoming traffic and when there is space to step into the street without making anyone immediately swerve or get on their brakes I head out.

Once in the street proceed slowly and deliberately forward timing your progress so you'll walk forward into the spot behind the motorbike that just passed by. If it doesn't look like you have room to move forward stop until the motorbike preventing that progress passes then move into the spot behind as just described. Move deliberately and remember you, the motorbike riders and the cars are dynamically negotiating the progress each of you want to make.

If the motorbikes are adjusting their path but it doesn't seem to be a reaction to you stop and look opposite the direction of oncoming traffic. There's likely someone coming from that direction and you need to be sure not to step into its path.

On the streets that are wide enough the four wheel vehicles are near the center line and the motorbikes toward the curb. If you're crossing one of these streets when you get to the four wheel traffic area stop if there are four wheel vehicles approaching and they can't conveniently slow down to let you pass. Standing in the street is okay, really! Once you can step behind a passing four wheeler and not slow the following one down too much go ahead and cross the street to the center line. Remember to watch out for motorbikes from either direction.

Now that you've made it to the center of the road repeat the crossing process in reverse. That's all there is too it!!

Cao Đài Temple

The temple campus is a really huge and open place. The temple itself is quite large and has a great deal of fine detail work. Rather than replicate everything said in the Wikipedia article I'll add my own impressions and some additional detail picked up from the tour guide.

Between our tour guide, Wikipedia and the CIA World fact book there is quite a discrepancy regarding percentage of various religions practiced here. According to the guide about 60% of the population is Buddhist, 15% Christian, 5% Muslim, 5%  Cao Đài and the remainder other religions or not religious. From Wikipedia the figures are 80%, 8%, "a small minority" and 3% respectively. And finally the CIA World Factbook says the distribution is 9.3%, 7.2%, 0.1% and 1.1% respectively.

While approaching the temple our tour guide said that photos are allowed and can be taken throughout the campus, the temple and during the ceremony which would start at noon. One significant protocol he made us aware of is that once the ceremony begins it is not allowed to walk past the front of the temple. I snapped a number of photos outside and inside the temple then headed outside once tourists began to fill in the gallery and the Caodaists began assembling on the ground floor to begin the ceremony.

Outside, while putting my sandals back on (shod feet are not allowed in the temple), a Caodaist approached me and struck up a conversation asking where I am from, why here, how long am I staying and what religion do I practice. He was an older man I would estimate to be in his late sixties. Quite pleasant and easy to speak with. Once he found that I wasn't going to watch the ceremony he invited me back into the temple saying it is a very beautiful sight to see accompanied by pleasant music and singing. With an invitation like that how could I refuse? So back in I went. The video attached here shows the beginning of the ceremony. I should have started recording earlier. The missing piece is that women are on the left and men on the right. When the ceremony began they were lined up facing each other on opposite sides of the temple and then moved to the center, keeping their ranks separate, until there was a small gap between the two groups as seen in the video. At that point they all turned to face the far end of the temple and sat to pray. I exited shortly after the end of the video, before the end of the ceremony, to get on xe buýt before it left.

One of the significant contrasts I noted is how clean and well kept the campus and temple are vice the filth and dirt right outside the gate. Outside the gate there was trash piled in the street and laying against the campus fence. And it stank.

So there is a beautiful, large, well kept temple on a big campus ringed by a wall...

...and outside is a stinking mess. Despite the rotting mess, I didn't see any flying bugs of any kind. I expected a swarm of flies based on experience from home. There were NO bugs flying around the garbage or pestering me for standing too close to it.

She understands me!!!

My Mekong delta excursion included an overnight stay in the city of Cần Thơ in hotel Huy Hoàng. There are pictures at the link. (Note: If there isn't a panoramic view of the street from the hotel's 3rd floor you can check again later if you want to see the hotel and street in front. It takes a while for the pictures to be posted to Google Maps.)

While riding the tour bus into Cần Thơ our guide told us that the locals refer to English speakers as "hellos" because, of course, that's how we greet people and respond when greeted. I've been trying to learn some Vietnamese for quite a while and have learned the Vietnamese "hello" is "chào" followed by an appropriate pronoun. There are many pronouns to choose and the correct one to use reflects the gender, relative age difference, familial relationship and familiarity with the person being addressed! Fortunately if you don't know how to decipher it all getting by with nothing at all or "em" both seem to work fairly well. Whew.

In the evening I went walking to the market along Hai Bà Trưng street.

I walked quite a bit and went from the hotel to Hai Bà Trưng then right to the intersection with Phan Đình Phùng street, turned around and went to the intersection with Vo Van Tanh street, turned around again and found  restaurant for dinner then finally back to the hotel.

While out walking a group of four young Vietnamese, two couples I'd guess to be college students, walked by me. One of the women said "hello" to me and I replied "chào em". On hearing that she began asking me several questions in English and where I thought I knew the appropriate Vietnamese response I replied in Vietnamese. She and her friends seemed to really enjoy my Vietnamese quite a bit. After some conversation with her friends she asked if they could take a picture with me because "Caucasians never try and speak Vietnamese" and not only that, they could understand me. Of course I said YES.

Quite an ego boost. And it was going to get better.

After the conversation with the students I continued my walk until I saw an appealing restaurant. The place had an open air front with tables looking out to the sidewalk to sit and watch the passersby. I sat down and the waitress provided me with a menu. After looking it over I ordered by reading the Vietnamese from the menu. Once I finished the meal I asked for the bill and confirmed the amount still using Vietnamese. When the waitress came back with change she asked, in English, if I live or work in Vietnam! When I asked the reason for her question she said my Vietnamese was very good and she could understand me easily so she thought I must have spent a lot of time in Vietnam. That was great to hear.

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) Traffic

Much has been said about traffic in HCM city and you may have some sense that the traffic is fierce and nearly unmanageable for a foreign visitor.

Having taken quite a few cab rides and two trips on the back of a motorbike I can say myself the traffic is truly incredible. Two videos are below so that you might get your own sense of what it is like.

Being in traffic a number of times now my impression has changed from a frightening vision of unimaginable chaos to appreciation for a level of harmony and courtesy that isn't immediately apparent. Look at the videos and you will likely share my first impressions. There ought to be accidents happening every few moments, but there aren't.

Once you've seen and been in the traffic a bit you'd appreciate what isn't apparent by watching from the curb, there are almost no aggressive drivers. With the terrible congestion from all the vehicles, if you think about it for a bit, it makes sense. Plus the vehicles aren't metal behemoths with the driver and passengers wrapped in a protective shell. In most cases flesh and blood would be hurt by a crash, not only metal. Drivers must be conscious of this and adjust their driving techniques accordingly.

In the videos watch for traffic in the "wrong" lanes, going the "wrong" way, crossing against oncoming traffic, doing U-turns, pulling into traffic from driveways and, perhaps most impressive, all of the traffic at some intersections proceeding through the intersection without stopping! Somehow traffic from all three, at T's, or four directions makes it through without disaster.

Finally, a blogging solution!

One prior post is updates with pictures. I'll start loading new posts too. My cô giáo has taken care of me again and gotten me a loaner laptop!

Updated post
First night...

I am sure I was able to post pictures and videos from the tablet before. Will probably restore to factory image and try with it again once I'm back in the US.

Off to Mekong Delta & floating market

Taking an overnight excursion to the delta with stops to see stilt houses, a fruit plantation, a fishing village and Rung Tram forest. Pictures when I'm back Sunday evening (local time).

Pictures and Android tablet

Planned to post more but haven't been able to load pictures to the blog easily using Droid tablet. Trying to figure out one that let's me load directly from the camera SD card inserted into tablet but nothing's worked so far.

Anyway trip is going well. Once I get the picture loading figured out will back post the pictures to existing entries and new ones that are posted before method is figured out.

First night...

Exiting the HCM airport involved going through customs, getting my checked bag, finding my ride and getting to the hotel.

Customs was incredibly easy.  No wait, all the booths had an agent in them even at 9:30 PM. I went to an open window  and handed over my passport with visa inside. The agent opened it up, made an exclamation when he found the visa as if he wasn't expecting it, stamped the visa, handed everything back to me and waved me through. At that point I said "cảm ơn" the agent looked surprised, grined a bit and waved at me.

It took a while for my checked bag to come down the carousel. But it came through just fine. Collected the bag and exited the bagging area. Exiting was a new experience. In addition to comparing the bag claim check to the tag on the bag both the bag and carryon went through Xray to get out of the airport.

From there it was time to find my cô giáo for a ride to the hotel. I snapped a picture of her when we met.

traditional clothes called áo dài

Airport to hotel was a short taxi ride. Even at 10:00 or 10:30 at night the amount of two wheeled traffic was incredible. I'll be attempting to document it so I can post a picture or video that conveys the complexity and volume. For now I'll say I've never seen anything like it before, ever.

After checkin another short taxt ride to get a meal. Again cô giáo gets me there and we share some phở.

While eating one of the innumberable motorcycles pulls over with a huge bundle on the back. In the dark I can't see clearly and ask if the bundle is coconuts. Nope, turns out its durian! It's one of the fruits I've been looking forward to try fresh here in Vietnam. I bought one and the vendor opened it for me. Incredible the work needed to open this thing up. I'm amazed anyone ever found out there's anything edible inside given the work it takes to open it.

My first thought about the flavor is nothing special. The texture is quite unexpected though. Unlike any fruit I've ever had. Rather than some sort of fiber like in oranges, apples, etc. or soft but cohevsive flesh like a banana or some mellons the flesh is almost like pudding. After dinner it's back to the hotel with plenty of left over durian to put in the fridge.

Next morning I find that there's some of that pungent smell durian is famous for coming from the fridge. And I taste some for breakfast. Wow, much better than when it was first opened. There is now a sweetness to the flavor and a sweet aftertaste. Can't describe the flavor though except to say it is not citris and it is good.

The flights out

I'd have to say my concern about being stuck in a small seat for an interminable amount of time is only 1/3 true. The flight from JFK to Narita, Japan on a Boeing 777 was quite comfortable. The 777 seat is quite comfortable as economy airplane seats go. Or perhaps it is roomier because the aircraft is used for such long duration flights. Total flight time to Japan was about 14 hours.  The seat reclines and there is a foot rest on the seat in front so I can change my foot positoin with ease. And I'm pretty sure the seat is wider than the standard economy seat on domestic flights. So it doesn't feel so cramped.

The 777 has all seats, even economy, outfitted with an entertaiment system that includes a video display in the back of the seat in front. Movies do cost but music and some videos are free. Also there is a live travel map with several different views showing progress of the flight. It is just the type of thing that really draws my attention (shows live realtime information about something relevant to me).

The 2nd leg was a 767. Perhaps because of the length of the first flight, perhaps because of the seat or maybe the combination, the seat was much more uncomfortable. Certainly there was much less leg room. So for the second leg I fidgeted uncomfortably quite a bit.

Both flights were operated by ANA though the booking was with United. The service on board is very good and the stewardesses have been readily available with assistance. Additional water, a pen when needed (mine's packed away in the checked bag) rapid meal service, etc. were all quickly and cheerilly provided.

The meal choices on the 777 were "J-Menu BENTO" and "Western Choice". No idea what would be served with J-Menu but that's what I asked for. After eating and later spending time exploring the various features on the in seat electroinics I figured out the J-Menu. It is deep-fried sablefish with thick seafood and soy sauce. And it was quite good. Compared to the sad sandwiches I've gotten on even the longest domestic flights in recent years this was gourmet quality.

So far it seems my jet lag avoidance plan may have a chance to succeed. I stayed up late and woke early two days before the flight and the day before. I planned to arrive at the airport tired and sleep for a while on the first leg of the trip out. Then stay away for the remainder of the trip to HCM. Hopefully I arrive there beginning to feel tired and will be able to sleep when I get to the hotel at about 10:30 PM local time which would be 11:30 AM my time.

I was very tired in the terminal and able to fall asleep once I boarded the plane. I got about 4 hours sleep. For someone who sleeps 5 to 7 hours most nights that's a pretty good chunk. It's now 11:35 PM my time, 10:35 AM HCM time and I don't know what local time is here over the Bearing Sea or North Pacific and west of the International Date Line. I don't feel any more tired than I normally would during mid day.

Earlier in the flight I read my dad's book "A Saigon Diary" and was able to get all the way through without nodding off. That tells me I'm pretty alert. Usually reading and travel knock me out. Dad's book is no page turner so it would put me out even after coffee. Just a few more hours to Tokyo Narita Airport, a few hours wait for my next flight and then about 6 more hours to Saigon. A pretty easy 6,000 mile jaunt.